Glycolipid Biosurfactants as Multifunctional Ingredients in Leave-On Skin Care Formulations: Properties, Performance, and Clean Beauty Applications
Abstract
Objective(s): To characterize the structural chemistry, physicochemical properties, skin bioactivities, formulation aspects, sustainability, therapeutic applications, commercialization, and regulatory aspects of sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids as biosurfactants with focus on their potential in leave-on cosmetic and topical pharmaceutical formulations, as well as highlight research and development gaps.
Data sources: Peer-reviewed scientific publications, patents, and market reports, as well as regulatory guidelines from the EU (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, and related Commission implementing acts), the US (FDA; Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act), and other regions.
Study selection: All reports, patents, and publications addressing any aspect of the structure-property-performance-benefit relations of sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids as biosurfactants for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical applications were included. A preference was given to primary studies reporting experimentally obtained data over reviews and other secondary sources.
Summary of contents: The present review discusses the differences in the amphiphilic structure of sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids and their impact on the performance in leave-on and rinse-off formulations. The moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities of glycolipids, as well as their emulsifying properties and versatility in formulation design, were also described. The commercial status of glycolipid biosurfactants, analytical techniques for physicochemical characterization, and regulatory aspects of their use in cosmetics and topical pharmaceutical formulations were briefly outlined and discussed in relation to sustainability.
Conclusion: Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids are promising biosurfactants with a variety of beneficial properties for leave-on topical formulations and drug delivery; however, their clinical applications still require further validation, and their cost-effectiveness needs to be proved.
Keywords: Glycolipid biosurfactants; sophorolipids; rhamnolipids; mannosylerythritol lipids; leave-on cosmetics; topical drug delivery; skin barrier function
Keywords:
Glycolipid biosurfactants, sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, leave-on cosmetics, topical drug delivery, skin barrier functionDOI
https://doi.org/10.22270/jddt.v16i10.7938References
1. Adu SA, Twigg MS, Naughton PJ, Marchant R, Banat IM, "Glycolipid Biosurfactants in Skincare Applications: Challenges and Recommendations for Future Exploitation" Molecules, 2023; 28(11):4463. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28114463
2. Corazza M, Lauriola M, Zappaterra M, Bianchi A, Virgili A, "Surfactants, Skin Cleansing Protagonists" J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 2010; 24:1-6. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2009.03349.x
3. Johnson P, Trybala A, Starov V, Pinfield VJ, "Effect of Synthetic Surfactants on the Environment and the Potential for Substitution by Biosurfactants" Adv Colloid Interface Sci, 2021; 288:102340. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cis.2020.102340
4. Dagenais Roy M, Déziel E, "Microbial Primer: Biosurfactants – The ABCs of Microbial Surface-Active Metabolites" Microbiology (Reading), 2025; 171(9). DOI: https://doi.org/10.1099/mic.0.001604
5. Adu SA, Naughton PJ, Marchant R, Banat IM, "Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations" Pharmaceutics, 2020; 12(11):1099. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics12111099
6. Nguyen TT, Sabatini DA, "Characterization and Emulsification Properties of Rhamnolipid and Sophorolipid Biosurfactants and Their Applications" Int J Mol Sci, 2011; 12(2):1232-1244. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms12021232
7. Thakur P, Saini NK, Thakur VK, Gupta VK, Saini RV, Saini AK, "Rhamnolipid the Glycolipid Biosurfactant: Emerging Trends and Promising Strategies in the Field of Biotechnology and Biomedicine" Microb Cell Fact, 2021; 20:1-15. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1186/s12934-020-01497-9
8. Sałek K, Euston SR, Janek T, "Phase Behaviour, Functionality, and Physicochemical Characteristics of Glycolipid Surfactants of Microbial Origin" Front Bioeng Biotechnol, 2022; 9:816613. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fbioe.2022.816613
9. Xu Y, Stuart DT, "Moesziomyces antarcticus MMF1 Has a Role in the Secretion of Mannosylerythritol Lipids" Microorganisms, 2025; 13(7):1463. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms13071463
10. Yamamoto S, Morita T, Fukuoka T, Imura T, Yanagidani S, Sogabe A, Kitamoto D, Kitagawa M, "The Moisturizing Effects of Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids, on Human Skin" J Oleo Sci, 2012; 61(7):407-412. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.61.407
11. Bouwstra JA, Nădăban A, Bras W, McCabe C, Bunge A, Gooris GS, "The Skin Barrier: An Extraordinary Interface with an Exceptional Lipid Organization" Prog Lipid Res, 2023; 92:101252. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.plipres.2023.101252
12. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F, "Stratum Corneum Fatty Acids: Their Critical Role in Preserving Barrier Integrity During Cleansing" Int J Cosmet Sci, 2013; 35(4):337-345. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12042
13. Jing C, Guo J, Li Z, Xu X, Wang J, Zhai L, Liu J, Sun G, Wang F, Xu Y, Li Z, Zhao D, Jiang R, Sun L, "Screening and Research on Skin Barrier Damage Protective Efficacy of Different Mannosylerythritol Lipids" Molecules, 2022; 27(14):4648. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27144648
14. Lu X, Nattland S, van Logchem MD, Wenk HH, Cabirol F, Dahl V, Scheuermann R, Brandt KD, Kleinen J, "Rhamnolipid Esters as Nonionic Surfactants for Cosmetic Use" US Patent 10,676,495 B2, Evonik Operations GmbH.
15. Ferček I, Ozretić P, Zanze L, Zoričić Z, Dolački L, Čivljak R, Lugović-Mihić L, "The Role of Skin Microbiota in Facial Dermatoses and Related Factors: A Narrative Review" Int J Mol Sci, 2025; 26(18):8857. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms26188857
16. Nowicka D, Kucharczyk E, Pawłuszkiewicz K, Korgiel M, Busłowicz T, Ponikowska M, "Topical Probiotics as a Novel Approach in the Treatment of Chronic Dermatoses Associated with Skin Dysbiosis: A Narrative Review" Int J Mol Sci, 2025; 26(20):10195. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms262010195
17. Xu R, Ma L, Chen T, Wang J, "Sophorolipid Suppresses LPS-Induced Inflammation in RAW264.7 Cells through the NF-κB Signaling Pathway" Molecules, 2022; 27(15):5037. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27155037
18. Karnwal A, Shrivastava S, Al-Tawaha ARMS, Kumar G, Singh R, Kumar A, Mohan A, Yogita, Malik T, "Microbial Biosurfactant as an Alternate to Chemical Surfactants for Application in Cosmetics Industries in Personal and Skin Care Products: A Critical Review" Biomed Res Int, 2023; 2023:2375223. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1155/2023/2375223
19. Zulianello L, Canard C, Köhler T, Caille D, Lacroix JS, Meda P, "Rhamnolipids Are Virulence Factors That Promote Early Infiltration of Primary Human Airway Epithelia by Pseudomonas aeruginosa" Infect Immun, 2006; 74(6):3134-3147. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1128/IAI.01772-05
20. Morita Y, Tadokoro S, Sasai M, Kitamoto D, Hirashima N, "Biosurfactant Mannosyl-Erythritol Lipid Inhibits Secretion of Inflammatory Mediators from RBL-2H3 Cells" Biochim Biophys Acta, 2011; 1810(12):1302-1308. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bbagen.2011.07.002
21. Pinto D, Ciardiello T, Franzoni M, Pasini F, Giuliani G, Rinaldi F, "Effect of Commonly Used Cosmetic Preservatives on Skin Resident Microflora Dynamics" Sci Rep, 2021; 11:8695. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-88072-3
22. Mäki-Opas I, Luostarinen S, Hämäläinen M, Muraki K, Moilanen E, "The Contact Allergen Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is a Potent Activator of the TRPA1 Ion Channel" Pharmacol Res Perspect, 2025; 13(3):e70053. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/prp2.70053
23. Sotirova AV, Spasova DI, Galabova DN, Karpenko E, Shulga A, "Rhamnolipid–Biosurfactant Permeabilizing Effects on Gram-Positive and Gram-Negative Bacterial Strains" Curr Microbiol, 2008; 56:639-644. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00284-008-9139-3
24. Saadati F, Shahryari S, Mohseni Sani N, Farajzadeh D, Shahbani Zahiri H, Vali H, Akbari Noghabi K, "Effect of MA01 Rhamnolipid on Cell Viability and Expression of Quorum-Sensing (QS) Genes Involved in Biofilm Formation by Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus" Sci Rep, 2022; 12:14833. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-022-19103-w
25. Haba E, Bouhdid S, Torrego-Solana N, Marqués AM, Espuny MJ, García-Celma MJ, Manresa A, "Rhamnolipids as Emulsifying Agents for Essential Oil Formulations: Antimicrobial Effect against Candida albicans and Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus" Int J Pharm, 2014; 476(1-2):134-141. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2014.09.039
26. Alexander H, Paller AS, Traidl-Hoffmann C, Beck LA, De Benedetto A, Dhar S, Girolomoni G, Irvine AD, Spuls P, Su J, Thyssen JP, Vestergaard C, Werfel T, Wollenberg A, Deleuran M, Flohr C, "The Role of Bacterial Skin Infections in Atopic Dermatitis: Expert Statement and Review from the International Eczema Council Skin Infection Group" Br J Dermatol, 2020; 182(6):1331-1342. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.18643
27. Xu Q, Kang D, Meyer MD, Pennington CL, Gopal C, Schertzer JW, Kirienko NV, "Cytotoxic Rhamnolipid Micelles Drive Acute Virulence in Pseudomonas aeruginosa" Infect Immun, 2023. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1128/iai.00407-23
28. Haque F, Alfatah M, Ganesan K, Bhattacharyya MS, "Inhibitory Effect of Sophorolipid on Candida albicans Biofilm Formation and Hyphal Growth" Sci Rep, 2016; 6:23575. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/srep23575
29. Sen S, Borah SN, Kandimalla R, Bora A, Deka S, "Sophorolipid Biosurfactant Can Control Cutaneous Dermatophytosis Caused by Trichophyton mentagrophytes" Front Microbiol, 2020; 11:329. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2020.00329
30. Ma XJ, Wang T, Zhang HM, Shao JQ, Jiang M, Wang H, Zhu HX, Zhou D, "Comparison of Inhibitory Effects and Mechanisms of Lactonic Sophorolipid on Different Pathogenic Bacteria" Front Microbiol, 2022; 13:929932. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2022.929932
31. Diaz De Rienzo MA, Stevenson PS, Marchant R, Banat IM, "Effect of Biosurfactants on Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus Biofilms in a BioFlux Channel" Appl Microbiol Biotechnol, 2016; 100(13):5773-5779. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00253-016-7310-5
32. Leow, Y.S., Awang Biak, D.R., Jamali, N.S., Teh, H.F., & Abdullah, N. (2026). Stabilizing Nanoemulsions with Blended Biosurfactants: Role of Sophorolipids and Lecithin in Emulsion Performance. BioTech, 15(3), 51. https://doi.org/10.3390/biotech15030051
33. Khan MB, Sasmal C, "A Detailed and Systematic Study on Rheological and Physicochemical Properties of Rhamnolipid Biosurfactant Solutions" JCIS Open, 2022; 8:100067. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jciso.2022.100067
34. Kleinen J, Langwald J, Venzmer J, Yalcinkaya H, "Microrheology to Understand the Viscosity Behavior of a Sophorolipid Biosurfactant" Colloids Interfaces, 2022; 6(1):3. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/colloids6010003
35. Hollenbach R, Oeppling S, Delavault A, Völp AR, Willenbacher N, Rudat J, Ochsenreither K, Syldatk C, "Comparative Study on Interfacial and Foaming Properties of Glycolipids in Relation to the Gas Applied for Foam Generation" RSC Adv, 2021; 11(54):34235-34244. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1039/d1ra06190a
36. Rhamnolipid Derivatives as Emulsifiers and Dispersing Aids, US Patent 11,696,885 (Evonik Operations GmbH).
37. Xiao et al., "Formulation of Rhamnolipid-Containing Cosmetics Without Sulfate Surfactants: A Rheology and Stability Study" J Surfactants Deterg, 2024. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/jsde.12733
38. Ganesan et al., "Assessing the Complementarity of Rhamnolipid and Surfactin Biosurfactants in Stabilizing Skin-Care O/W Nanoemulsions" J Surfactants Deterg, 2026. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/jsde.70034
39. Lourith N, Kanlayavattanakul M, "Natural Surfactants Used in Cosmetics: Glycolipids" Int J Cosmet Sci, 2009; 31:255-261. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00493.x
40. NielsenIQ, "2030 Glow-Up: The Future of Clean Beauty" NIQ Insights, 2021. Available at: https://nielseniq.com/global/en/insights/analysis/2021/2030-glow-up-the-future-of-clean-beauty/
41. Fortune Business Insights, "Clean Beauty Market Size, Industry Share, Growth, Report, 2034" Fortune Business Insights, 2026. Available at: https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/clean-beauty-market-111332
42. Purohit A, Das AJ, Ghosh D, "Agro-Industrial Waste to Microbial Sophorolipids: Innovations and Impacts on the Food Industry" Curr Res Microb Sci, 2024; 7:100275. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.crmicr.2024.100275
43. Briem AK, et al., "Environmental Impacts of Biosurfactants from a Life Cycle Perspective: A Systematic Literature Review" in Biosurfactants for the Biobased Economy, 2022; 235-269. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/10_2021_194
44. Mohan PK, Nakhla G, Yanful EK, "Biokinetics of Biodegradation of Surfactants Under Aerobic, Anoxic and Anaerobic Conditions" Water Res, 2006; 40(3):533-540. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.watres.2005.11.030
45. COSMOS-standard AISBL, "COSMOS-NATURAL and COSMOS-ORGANIC Standard" Brussels, Belgium. Available at: https://www.cosmos-standard.org/en/
46. Gaur PK, Bisht PR, Verma KK, Kaushik R, Mishra R, Lal N, Lata K, "Functional Roles of Microbial Biosurfactants in Pharmaceutical Formulation and Targeted Drug Delivery" J Surfactants Deterg, 2026; 29(3):419-433. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/jsde.70030
47. Ceresa C, Fracchia L, Sansotera AC, Díaz De Rienzo MA, Banat IM, "Harnessing the Potential of Biosurfactants for Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Applications" Pharmaceutics, 2023; 15(8):2156. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15082156
48. Lydon HL, Baccile N, Callaghan B, Marchant R, Mitchell CA, Banat IM, "Adjuvant Antibiotic Activity of Acidic Sophorolipids with Potential for Facilitating Wound Healing" Antimicrob Agents Chemother, 2017; 61(5):e02547-16. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1128/AAC.02547-16
49. "Sophorolipids Market Size, Share, Growth, Analysis, Report, 2034" Straits Research. Available at: https://straitsresearch.com/report/sophorolipids-market
50. Godrej Industries Limited, "Renewa™ Biosurfactant Platform Capacity Expansion Announcement" Godrej Industries, 2025.
51. “Evonik Enters New Era of Cleaning with Launch of REWOFERM® RL 100 Biosurfactant" Evonik Industries, 2026. Available at: https://central-south-america.evonik.com/en/evonik-enters-new-era-of-cleaning-with-launch-of-rewoferm-rl-100-biosurfactant-185310.html.
52. “Sophorolipid and Rhamnolipid Market Forecast to 2030 – COVID-19 Impact and Global Analysis – by Type, Application, and Geography" The Insight Partners, 2023. Available at: https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2023/10/03/2753790/0/en/Sophorolipid-and-Rhamnolipid-Market-worth-541-63-Million-by-2030-Exclusive-Report-by-The-Insight-Partners.html
53. “Rhamnolipid Market Expected to Hit USD 5.69 Billion by 2034, Growing at 18.60%" TrendX Insights, 2026. Available at: https://trendxinsights.com/syndicated-market-research-reports/rhamnolipid-market/
54. Evonik Industries, "Rhamnolipids" Evonik. https://www.evonik.com/en/company/we-go-beyond/rhamnolipids.html
55. “Rhamnolipids Rise as a Green Surfactant" C&EN (Chemical & Engineering News). https://cen.acs.org/materials/biomaterials/Rhamnolipids-rise-green-surfactant/98/i23
56. “Mannosylerythritol Lipids Market Size, Share and Forecast 2032" Credence Research, 2025. Available at: https://www.credenceresearch.com/report/mannosylerythritol-lipids-market
57. Zompra AA, Chasapi SA, Twigg MS, Salek K, Anestopoulos I, Galanis A, Pappa A, Marchant R, Banat IM, Gerothanassis IP, Stathopoulou K, Spyroulias GA, "Multi-Method Biophysical Analysis in Discovery, Identification, and In-Depth Characterization of Surface-Active Compounds" Front Mar Sci, 2022; 9:1023287. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2022.1023287
58. Ribeiro IA, Rosário Bronze M, Castro MF, Ribeiro MHL, "Optimization and Correlation of HPLC-ELSD and HPLC–MS/MS Methods for Identification and Characterization of Sophorolipids" J Chromatogr B, 2012; 899:72-80. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jchromb.2012.05.001
59. Chaida A, Chebbi A, Bensalah F, Franzetti A, "Isolation and Characterization of a Novel Rhamnolipid Producer Pseudomonas sp. LGMS7 from a Highly Contaminated Site in Ain El Arbaa Region of Ain Temouchent, Algeria" 3 Biotech, 2021; 11(4):200. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13205-021-02751-6
60. Mawani J, Jadhav J, Pratap A, "Fermentative Production of Mannosylerythritol Lipids Using Sweetwater as Waste Substrate by Pseudozyma antarctica (MTCC 2706)" Tenside Surf Deterg, 2021; 58(4):246-258. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/tsd-2020-2272
61. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on Cosmetic Products. Official Journal of the European Union, L342, 22 December 2009. Available at: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223.
62. European Commission, Directorate-General for Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs, "Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng)" Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/.
63. Commission Implementing Decision of 25 November 2013 on Guidelines on Annex I to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on Cosmetic Products (2013/674/EU). Official Journal of the European Union, L315/82, 26 November 2013. Available at: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX%3A32013D0674
64. Nascimento MF, Keković P, Ribeiro IAC, Faria NT, Ferreira FC, "Novel Organic Solvent Nanofiltration Approaches for Microbial Biosurfactants Downstream Processing" Membranes, 2023; 13(1):81. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/membranes13010081
65. Challener CA, "Managing Residual Impurities During Downstream Processing" BioPharm Int, 2017; 30(6):26-28.
66. U.S. Food and Drug Administration, "Cosmetics & U.S. Law" FDA, 2025. Available at: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/cosmetics-us-law
67. Congressional Research Service, "FDA Regulation of Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA)" Congress.gov, R47826.
68. Wongsirichot P, Winterburn J, "Recent Advances in Sophorolipid Production: From Laboratory to Pilot Scale and Beyond" J Clean Prod, 2025; 492:144898. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2025.144898
69. Liu D, Liu G, Liu S, "Promising Application, Efficient Production, and Genetic Basis of Mannosylerythritol Lipids" Biomolecules, 2024; 14(5):557. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/biom14050557
70. "Sophorolipid and Rhamnolipid Market Forecasts to 2034 — Global Analysis by Type, Application, and Geography" Stratistics MRC, 2026. Available at: https://www.marketresearch.com/Stratistics-Market-Research-Consulting-v4058/Sophorolipid-Rhamnolipid-Forecasts-Global-Type-45068188/
Published
Abstract Display: 0 
PDF Downloads: 0 PDF Downloads: 0 How to Cite
Issue
Section
Copyright (c) 2026 Arzoo, Virupshi Rastogi
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International (CC BY-NC 4.0). that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgment of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgment of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).
How to Cite
.